The Paris collections are fashion’s main event, and there has been plenty of style on display at the spring/summer 2022 shows currently underway. As celebrities from across the globe fly in to experience the latest from Dior, Saint Laurent, Chanel, and Givenchy, they’re bringing their A-game and suitcases filled with designer goodies. After several seasons of virtual events and live-streamed runways, PFW’s calendar of in-person events has led to a front-row renaissance and plenty of high drama ensembles.
The fun kicked off before the shows even began. To honor the Thierry Mugler, Couturissime retrospective at Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Cardi B arrived at the museum in a classic from the Mugler archives. The red sequined bustier gown and feathered stole from the designer’s fall/winter 1995 collection was exquisite when it debuted on Eva Herzigova nearly two decades earlier. Cardi recreated the look down to the blonde coif and bejeweled eyebrows.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s disco-themed runway for Dior at the Jardin des Tuileries brought out stars like Natalia Vodianova, Rosamund Pike, and Jurnee Smollett—all of whom dressed to the nines. Still, the arrival that generated the most buzz was BlackPink star Jisoo, who in an A-line mini dress with a hand-painted portrait, captured the artsy elegance of the Dior woman.
Saint Laurent’s rock ‘n’ roll muses were front and center at Anthony Vaccarello’s show at Jardins du Trocadéro. Led by perennial favorites Carla Bruni and Charlotte Gainsbourg, the group of front row regulars kept things short, sweet, and menswear-inspired. Titane actress Agathe Rousselle opted for a black leather suit, while Gossip Girl star Emily Alyn Lind chose short shorts. On hand to inject a little color into the proceedings was actress Talia Ryder, whose gold brocade jumpsuit sparkled beneath the Eiffel Tower’s lights.
Maria Grazia Chiuri makes her ‘Marc’
For the latest Dior spectacle, Maria Grazia Chiuri paid homage to one of her predecessors, former creative director Marc Bohan, and his influence on the swinging style of the 1960s. Dior collections are known for comprising as many as 90 outfits, so what felt fresh and novel was how the maison presented the 88-look Spring Summer ’22 offering.
Today’s show space took a leaf from the pages of legendary Roman nightclub, the Piper Room, with a vividly colorful dance floor and live music that spoke to the overarching theme of the free love era. Models filled the stage all at once and took it in turns to take their walk towards the audience and photo pit in pieces that harked back to Bohan’s ‘Slim Look’ collection, rendered in Piet Mondrian hues of green, yellow, red, and cobalt.
As for what caught our eye? The disco ball flats with lace-up ties around the calf, fringing on a top that was actually made of intricate beaded daisy chains, and silk coord sets that looked like what you’d get if you teamed a bowling team’s shirt or bomber jacket with a heavyweight champion’s boxing shorts. Further rounding out the nostalgia-tinged collection were sixties staples like tank top minis, Peter Pan collar coats teamed with matching dresses underneath, quilted macs, short shorts, and lots of Mary Janes. Ensuring the first day of PFW didn’t begin without the glamour we’re accustomed to, the closing gowns and chandelier-fringed mini dresses upped the ante and wrapped up the collection nicely. Some, even with literal bows on them.
Eighties executive realness at Saint Laurent
Whomst is Anthony Vaccarello’s woman and where is she gainfully employed? Of that, we’re not sure, but we do know that he catered for his devout fans with a workwear offering of sorts. Ruched silk tops that would make Grace Jones proud, boxy borrowed-from-the-boys blazers and blazer dresses that have never looked so sexy, corduroy jumpsuits with power shoulders, Spandex unitards, and villainous driver’s gloves in shades of pillar box red and royal blue.
His show notes read that he was inspired by Yves’ muse Paloma Picasso, a designer and the daughter of Pablo, and her masc-meets-femme “tough glamour” aesthetic. We did see one image of a topless model with her YSL clutch tucked into her jeans waistband doing the rounds on Twitter accompanied with the caption “?????”—but all things considered, it was a hot take on the era’s styles that have prevailed and a lesson on how to make them work for now. And the tucked in clutch was a reference to an old paparazzi pic of Picasso that he found in the archives. We’re not mad at it! The disappointment? After seeing such strides in terms of size inclusivity on the New York runways, one wonders how casting agents in Paris are still turning such a noticeably blind eye.